Plenty of Svinica but no salt, please

19-08-12

Svinica from the west

Svinica in chains

Svinica summitteer

No bike brakes meant it was walking all the way. As I had made a late start I did contemplate getting the ski-chairlift from Kuznice to Kasprowy Wierch (1987m). However, when I saw the length of the queue, I realised that it would be as quick to walk rather than the probable three hour wait. Again, it was a long trek through forest to the Schronisko Murowaniec refuge, past some tarns and then zigzags up to the main ridge at Swinicka Przelecz (Pig saddle). There was a fine scramble along the ridge with chains nearer the summit of Svinica (2301m/P351).

If you look carefully you can see my house in Poland from here - Svinica summit

From here to the saddle at Zawrat the route was a series of chains that dropped down and up dramatically - not particularly difficult to follow but tiring. Waiting for someone to come the opposite way gave a welcome chance to have a break, but slowed down progress.
At Zawrat I did consider carrying on the Orla Perc (Eagle's perch) to Kosy Wierch but decided against it as already late afternoon and I would end up descending in the dark. Now I was missing the 24 hour daylight I was getting only a few weeks ago in Norway.

Looking back at Svinica

Looking back up to Zawrat

Kosica

The blue route from Zawrat was interesting enough in itself - at the beginning it was quite steep, with plenty of chains. On the way down I came across a small herd of wild kosica/mountain goats who did not seem to be troubled by human presence. The kosica is a pretty animal, a lot more attractive than the normal goat - my photo does not really give them justice.

Czarny Staw Gasienicowy

Svinica from CSG

No money exchange, or what?

After the kosica the path just became the standard rough bouldery stumble that I am getting used to. It was quite pleasant to circumnavigate the Czarny Staw Gasienicowy tarn with good retrospective views back up the hill. And then it was a long trek past the Schronisko Murowaniec where there was a chance to have a cup of tea.

When's the next bus?

As I was approaching the Przelecz miedzy Kopami saddle in the late evening daylight I could see a group of people sat down on each side of the track as if they were waiting for a bus. This, foolishly, raised my hopes that there may be such a service. I just could not figure what they were waiting for. As I turned the corner it became clear why. It was so good that I realised when they all looked at me that I must have said 'wow' out loud and not just thought it. The sun was low down and about to set in the gap between Kresanica and the distant Babia Gora - if you are concentrating you will remember both these from previous posts in this blog. That's why there are benches on each side of the path and people wait there. Again, my photo doesn't really give the view justice.

Looking west, so it must be dusk, not dawn

I have been in this situation before, whereby if you sit and watch the sunset whilst still high up on a hill it means that inevitably you are going to end up walking down in the dark. So, the final kilometres were a bit of a stumble in the dark and I was glad to finally reach the road at Kuznice. From there the last couple of kilometres back to the campsite was a doddle despite feeling tired and by now, hungry. But I was by no means the last to get back - I had left behind all the other sunset worshippers and overtaken several other people on the way. Maybe it is only in GB that the hills seem to empty after 3.00 pm and that you rarely meet anyone else on the hill at susnset.

Gerlach from Svinica - see later blog post!