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Tuesday, 28 May 2013

Canchal de la Ceja


22-05-2013
Canchal de la Ceya

En route to El Calvitero

Canchal de la Ceya -Sierra de Bejar

Started from 1863m high carpark  Plataforma del Travieso (1850m) N40.33503 W5.73245. As I was getting ready to go three young men turned up and headed off up the hill. I deliberately let them go off ahead of me in the hope that if they were going my way that they could do the hard work of navigating and pioneering through the fresh snow and I could literally follow in their footsteps. There first bit was a bit odd and hard going, however, they soon picked up a path that starts from the near end of the car park from the main road from Bejar. Despite my best efforts to keep behind them I still overtook them before we reached the summit of El Calvitero and then they turned back anyway. Aren’t some people odd, fancy going for a walk on the hill without being a bagger?
El Calvitero
I continued to pioneer to El Calvitero (2399m) N40.31731 W5.72399, marked by a metal tube, and then dropped down to the snowfree col (2326m) N40.30935 W5.73041 before, heading back into the drifting snow on the final uphill stretch to the summit of Canchal de la Ceya, Major 2430m P1153 N40.30457 W5.72899. The summit near the edge of a steep corrie wall is marked by a cairn and a silver space rocket. As I was still a bit tired from the previous day’s exertions on Almanzor and I had a long drive ahead of me, I decided to forgo exploring the El Torreon crags and head back.


Going back I foolishly left for a while the route I had pioneered and ending up flogging through more fresh snow. However, it meant that the route was a bit shorter and going down is easier than up, although not when the snow is hiding dwarf pine trees.
5.5hrs, 11.45km, 1036m ascent

I then drove into Portugal for the first time in my life, crossing the border at Fuentes de Onoro (E) and Vilar Formosa (P) to spend the night in a service area near Guarda on the edge of the Sierra de Estrala.

Circo de Gredos


21-05-2013.
An easy start
The day started in bright sunshine, I was making a nice early start from La Plataforma (1748m) N40.27557 W5.23211 on an obvious, well maintained and clearly waymarked trail PR AV-17 alongside the Rio de Prado before winding up the hillside. 
Circo de Gredos - Pico de Almanzor is on the left
After a while the maintenance is less obvious and the deepening snowcover was hiding all but the most obvious waymarks. Way up on the side of Los Barreones there is a small seating area and the Fuente de Cavedros (2136m) N40.27106 W5.25857. The ‘fuente’ turned out to be nothing more than a small pipe sticking out of the wall, with running water. The path goes up over the ridge and drops again to a noticeboard (2157m) N40.26783 W5.26784 where there is a good first proper view of the Circo de Gredos, including the Pico de Almanzor. Then there is a steady height loss as the path traverses down to a stream crossing (2028m) N40.26160 W5.26859 and a view of the Laguna Grande. 
Laguna Grande
The path continues to drop down to the laguna, which is frozen but not sufficiently to be trusted to walk across. So I had to pick my way through the untrodden snow at the water’s edge initially to a footbridge and then to the Refugio Elola 1942m N40.25050 W5.27976. The refugio was cerrado, although there is an unlocked winter room with bunks and blankets.
Refugio Elola
Almanzor from below - earlier
Unfortunately the bright sunshine of the morning start was not holding on. Clouds were beginning to form behind the Circo. Furthermore, there was no real sign of any paths towards the summit. So I made my own way up to Portilla Bermeja (2422m) N40.24346 W5.29583 a mere 450m away from the summit. However, what a 450m this turned out to be. The cloud had by now reduced visibility to a few metres, the updraft winds blew strongly and picked up a certain amount of stinging spindrift, the terrain is already difficult never mind icy old snow covered in new snow and I could tell that I was at a height where the drop in barometric pressure begins to take effect. I had to backtrack several times as I met obstacles and find an ‘easier’ way and even then there several occasions when I was outside my comfort zone. Mercifully, the rock climb at the very top was actually made marginally easier by the presence of snow. Nevertheless, it was touch and go – and that is exactly what I did, I touched the summit of Pico de Almanzor (Ultra 2592m P1690) with my hand and went – and I had to do it all again back to the Portilla Bermeja. On the way I slipped on a steep slope and for the first time ever had to do an ice-brake in earnest – and, was I pleased that it worked?
Almanzor from below - later
The drop down to the refugio was relatively easy, although it was the ‘wrong kind of snow’ for glissading and sliding. I debated with myself about stopping overnight and decided that I had enough daylight hours to get back. There were moments as I slogged my way back up towards Los Barreones that I wished I had made the alternative decision.
22.36km, 2214m ascent.

Overnight at La Plataforma.

Swiveleyesation


18-05-2013 - 20-05-2013

Over the next two days of sunny periods and sudden heavy rainstorms, that dried out quite quickly I managed to cycle around the centre of Madrid and visit the Museo Nacional de Prado and the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia, where there was a special Dali exhibition as well as the normal paintings such as Picasso’s Guernica. Other than the Bosch and Brueghel paintings at the Prado my favourite was Carlos de Haes La canal de Mancorbo en los Picos de Europa (1876).
Madrid was OK as cities go, however it did not seem anything special to me. Interesting(?) to note that most of Madrid is over 610m high – i.e. would count as a mountain in UK.


 
Carlos de Haes  - La canal de Mancorbo en los Picos de Europa (1876)
Two nights at the Arco Iris campsite near Vilaviciosa de Odon.
I then drove to Arenas de San Pedro in the Sierra de Gredos and after a couple of hours moved on to a rather basic campsite at Hoyos del Espino. I was the only person staying on the site and communication with the rather drunk man in the reception was limited.


Rain in Spain falls as snow on the non-plain


17-05-2013
Segovia Alcazar
After a brief visit to Segovia to look at the Alcazar (fortress) and the impressive Roman aqueduct in heavy rain I set off to the Sierra de Guadamarrama where the rain was falling as heavy snow.
Vigilare
The woman in the ‘Vigililare’ hut at the start of the climb looked at me as if I was crazy, as I told her that I wasn’t going to the Lagunda Grande de Penalara. Because I was headed for Pico de Penalara – Major 2429m P1114 at N40.85000 W3.95600 (honestly, that was my GPS reading, I haven’t rounded up the figures).
So I started from the large car park at Los Cotos (1821m) N40.82326 W3.96041 up the wooden steps to the Vigilare hut and then on to route RP1. Although a clearly marked route it was made a little more difficult to follow because of the deep snow and the practice of putting the markers at the junctions in the middle making it unclear as to which branch was the correct one. At the junction (1972m) at N40.82918 W3.95663 I took the right turn and after a few hundred metres I was heading in the wrong direction. The correct branch is the one on the left. The next junction at N40.83170 W3.95983 has a clear sign for the Pico de Penalara. However, from there the track was quite obscured by snow. I went over the summits of Hermana Menor (2269m) N40.83446 W3.96609 and Hermana Mayor (2284m) N40.84000 W3.96298. 
Although there was deep snow along this ridge, it forms a border between the provinces of Segovia and Madrid and there is a line of border markers that aid navigation, even though the visibility was less than the distance between them. At times I I ended up in thigh-deep snow drifts. The last section of the route is cairned in the excessive English Lake District style. The summit is marked by a trig point and a name board. 





There was no view – indeed it was a white out. 
JHM has a return route that continues along the ridge and a traverse back to the start. Because of the white-out I decided it was another ‘better the devil you know’ situation. Even so my ascent footprints had already been filled by fresh snow so I still had to navigate rather than just follow my trail.

As ever, sod’s law kicked in and as I reached the bottom the skies cleared and the sun shone for a short while.
Five hours, 12.92km, 1065m ascent.

I stayed overnight in the car park at Los Cotos – and when I woke in the morning I was parked in fresh snow that had fallen overnight. Time to escape to swivel-eyesation and pay a visit to a couple of Madrid’s art galleries. As I headed into town I could see that people were looking at my motorhome not just because it has the exotic steering wheel on the right, but also because there was still snow on the roof.

Tell no lies here


16-05-2013


El Teleno/Pico Teleno is a Major 2185m P1086 in the Sierra del Teleno at N42.34593 W6.39377. To get there involved driving up a high road that at one point has a sign saying the height is 1957m (for the benefit of my non-bagger readers: Ben Nevis is 1343m high; 1957-1343=614; in the UK anything over 610m high is considered to be a mountain). 







My starting point was at 1682m from a bend in the road from San Cristobal de Valduez to Corporales at N42.35017 W6.43172. There is an obvious path – that looks like a shallow ditch – that runs straight up the hillside through deep heather. At the top it meets a broad ridge, where there was a host of golden Narcissus asturiensis at 1872m N42.35438 W6.42360. From here the track becomes less obvious and there are several stretches of boulder hopping, made more ‘interesting’ by having a skim of fresh snow on the smooth rocks. The ridge drops to a bealach at N42.35006 W6.40264 and then rises with more boulder hopping. Thankfully higher up the boulders were covered with deep snow. The summit is marked by a cylindrical trig point and a collection of nonsense religious trinkets.

As usual there was no view from the summit. My descent route was the same as the ascent one and was against the wind and almost continual hail.
Four hours, 8.9km, 760m ascent.



On my long drive to mid Spain I passed through a strange deserted village Cubo de Benavente.













Overnight at a service area on the A6 near Arevalo, Avila.



Monday, 20 May 2013

Spain in Spring - sea, sun and Sangria


12-05-2013
Some readers may have noticed that thus far I have avoided the mountains in the Picos de Europa. I now realise that it is too early in the season for my level of competency to contemplate tackling mountains of this difficulty, especially this year as the snow is lingering longer than is normal. Maybe I will return later. 





Turbina
In the meantime there are plenty of lesser Majors to bag, like Turbina/La Torbina 1315m P873 in the Sierra de Cuera at N43.35426 W4.77007. If there had been a parking space available at 702m N43.33633 W4.78366 I would have started from there. As it happened there was no room so I had to make do with being two hundred metres lower down at 501m n43.33025 W4.77875 on a tiny patch big enough for two vehicles. From the higher up parking space there is a variety of routes that zig-zag steeply up on to a ridge that reminded me a bit of the Trotternish ridge on Skye. 
What was astonishing was the range of alpine flowers growing on these slopes as Griffon Vultures circled overhead. Once on the first ridge it is matter of working across the rising plateau of karst limestone around  a series of sinkholes, clints and grykes. 

Warning not to destruct the trig point - hope lightning can read.
The main summit is marked by a cylindrical trig point. There is another slightly lower summit close by at N43.35493 W4.77006 marked by a metal sculpture.


Cowaturbina
Marker on alternative summit

 I descended by a similar route to my ascent route except I must have zigged when I should have zagged and there was a section when the descent became a little desperate and the Griffon vultures were beginning to feel hopeful of some tasty carrion.
10.32km, 1239m ascent.

Overnight in centre of Cangas de Otis in designated motorhome parking area.





13-05-2013
Pico Pienzu
Asturian daffodil - Narcissus asturiensis

Pico Pienzu – Major 1161m P883 – in the Sierra del Sueve at N43.43183 W5.24214 is reached by one of those cunning paths that follows the line of least resistance from Mirador del Fitu 590m N43.43998 W5.19342. Contrary to other reports the path is clearly waymarked much of the way. 
View of Bay of Biscay enroute

Bistort?
And meeting others is no longer a novelty, I met literally a coachload of teenage schoolchildren on the way. And so I deliberately strayed from the set route towards the end and scrambled up the in the karst limestone chaos. 










Distort?
The summit is marked by a cylindrical trig point and a large unimaginativeness hideous cross. The clouds cleared occasionally to give a partial view, including that of the Picos de Europa.












View from summit of Pena Corvera towards the Picos de Europa
I varied the return route by visiting the summits of Pena Corvera 963m N43.42540 W5.23766 and Canto la Teya 728m N43.43043 W5.21241 on my way back to the mirador (viewpoint).
Four hours, 13.86km, 1121m ascent.
Overnight in large car park at Tuiza de Arriba 1179m.

14-05-2013


I woke up on this mid May day in Tuiza N43.02746 W5.91772 to find I was in thick mist (Tuiza May – isn’t she the Home Secretary?). I thought I was in for a miserable wet day. The route to Fontan Sur/Pena Ubina/Penya Ubina, a Major 2414m P1124 N43.01833 W5.95671 begins by following a choice of ginnels from the village up to a grazing area at the foot of the Macizo de Pena Ubina. As I reached the grazing area I came out of the mist to realise that I had been the victim of a temperature inversion and all was clear above with blue skies and a splendid view of the snowy mountains. 











Spot the skull
The path passes a sheepfold with a long seat on one side at N43.02576 W5.93707 and soon afterwards the rather ugly looking Refugio del Meicin at N43.02501 W5.93838. A price list on the door showed that the refugio was a guarded one and offered refreshments, however it was not open today.
Refugio del Meicin
The refugio looks OK from a distance
JMH has route that goes up on the north side of the main hill. However, that seemed to involve walking up a lot of snow. I opted to go for the bealach on the south side as it looked a bit easier. The way was quite steady up to the bealach at N43.01487 W5.94712 with good views back towards the cloud filled valleys to the north. It looked like the cloud stretched far over to the sea – like a sea fret. The valleys on the south side of the hills were cloud free, though.
The summit from the bealach - it is steeper than it looks, though
See what I mean?
From the bealach it was a steep climb kicking steps in firm snow with occasional deep soft patches all the way to the summit. The summit was marked by the familiar circular trig point and the views were excellent in all directions – except down, of course. 








Primula Auricula - Bear's ears
I did consider using the JMH route as a descent, however the cloud below had moved much further up the hillside and I thought better ‘the devil you know’ than trying to find a way through the mist on unknown slopes. Glissading and bumsliding down to the bealach was quite good fun, anyway – as well as an opportunity to practice ice axe braking. Then it was back into the mist for a similar route to that of the ascent.
12.75km, 1590m ascent.
















I attempted to drive out of Tuiza de Arriba via a road through the Puerto de la Cabilla in very thick mist. There was a long stretch of the already narrow road where it was half covered in knee deep old snow and I could sense, but not see, a steep drop on the other side. At the Puerto itself the road just came to an end with no advance warning that it was ‘cerredo’. This has happened to me a few times now – the satnav thinks there is a road, my 2013 edition road atlas shows there is a road, however there ain’t a viable one on the ground. In this case they are building a new road far down the valley with tunnels through the mountains – you’d think they would close the old road after building a new one rather than the other way round. So it was another overnight at Tuiza de Arriba – and it snowed during the night.

15-05-2013
Alto de la Canada



I managed to escape from Tuiza and drove to a small village called Riolago and parked up by a signboard at N42.94368 W6.07405. The signboard shows a route that heads towards the Alto de la Canada (‘the summit of the drove road’) a Major 2154m P889 in the Sierra de Villabandia. The weather was mixed sunny periods and hailstorms. There was a choice of unpaved roads from the start – the trick is to take the one on the right. 
La Brana refugio

As I neared the unguarded but nice-looking refugio/bothy, La Brana at N42.91020 W6.09570 I met a group of Spanish walkers. They advised me to head for a bealach that was much further to the right than the one on the signboard and in JMH. However, as I got nearer to the bealach I could see that it was o
verhung by a large cornice and I did not want to risk causing an avalanche. So I avoided the snow in all the passes by heading up onto the crinkly crags of Pena Negra that involved a bit of scrambling up and down to reach an unnamed summit on the main ridge.
Crinkly crags


From there it was a walk over the top of Robinalto to Alto de la Canada. A hailstorm arrived at the same time as me, therefore no view from the summit.
Summit of the drove road


Guess which way I came down

My descent route was a variation of the JMH route with a long snow descent and having to cross several swollen streams – or was it the same stream several times?
Six hours, 18.83km, 1832m ascent.

Stayed overnight in the centre of Bembibre, Leon province.