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Thursday, 19 July 2012

Went up the Norwegian coast

Glacier melts into the sea - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Svartisen



14-07-12
Drove to Mo I Rana and left the E6 and headed for the famed coast road, the Kystrikssveien allegedly the ‘world’s most beautiful journey. Difficult to confirm this as the weather meant that the visibility was quite poor.  However there were at times great views of mountains, glaciers and the sea, which I am sure would be even better in fine weather.  Crossed the Arctic circle on the ferry boat between Kilboghamn and Jektvik . The sign on the coast for the A circle not in the right place anymore as apparently it moves over time.   
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arctic_circle


Also caught a ferry from Agskardet to Foroy.
Slept in the Bodo harbour area.

15-07-12                                     
Caught the 6.00 am ferry to Moskenes, Lofoten. Very rough four hour crossing, a number of people were noisily sea-sick, whilst a picture of Stetind, Norway’s so-called  ‘national mountain’ swung wildly on the wall. Disappointingly did not get the dramatic view of the Lofoten mountains rising out of the sea on this approach because of the weather.
Hung around the isle of Moskenesoya hoping for a break in the weather.

Went up the E6 via Trondheim


13-07-12
A long drive, broken by a brief visit to Trondheim. Picked up three French people who were in the early stage of a year long journey to Australia via Scandinavia, Russia, China and the far east. They had not previously known each other and had planned the trip via the internet. At least I helped contribute a few hundred kilometres to their journey. Rained a lot

Once again, slept somewhere on the E6.
Trondheim

Went up Snohetta without a snow hat:

Musk oxen - could not get nearer, they are dangerous, apparently
Snohetta viewpoint


11-07-12
A heavy downpour of rain made me decide it was time to move further north. So off I went to Dombas which looked like the motorhome capital of the world! Chance to update my blog in Frich’s kafeteria.
Slept on the E6 near Hjerkinn
12-07-12
The plan to drive to Snoheim thwarted by the road being closed as the army are clearing unexploded ordnance from the area. Spent an hour visiting the pine Snohetta viewpoint and chasing a herd of musk oxen. Then caught the lunchtime Skyttelbuss to the hut  at Snoheim – the only way to get there, at least, for this season – see www.villrein.no










 
Worried that whole bus load would all set off for Snohetta together. As it turned out there were only six of us. The route is a mixture of well trodden track, snow slopes and very rough boulder fields – clearly waymarked all the way. The weather started fine, however within a couple of hours it was hail and snow. The summit of Snohetta (2286m, P1675, Norway’s fourth highest summit) is dominated by a military installation, including a helicopter landing deck. And it was cold in the snowstorm. No time to hang around and anyway, there was the bus to catch.
Slept somewhere further up the E6.
Snowing on Snohetta summit - Snohetta means 'snow hat'
















Wish I could work out how to rotate pictures, here. Snohetta summit

Wednesday, 11 July 2012

Went up the highest hill in northern Europe and came down again


Visdalen

10-07-12
Drove to Spiterstulen via Visdalen and then walked via Svellnose (2272m), Keilhaus topp (2385m), the Piggbrean glacier (which lower down becomes the Styggebrean or ‘Dangerous’ glacier) to the summit of Galdhopiggen (2469m, P2372). Besides being the highest point in Norway it is the highest point in northern Europe and an Ultra (for the uninitiated that is a hill that has a prominence of more than 1500 metres (and is only my second Ultra ever – the first being Monte Cinto, Corsica)).



Turn your screen 90 degrees to get the full effect of summit elation


The achievement was only marred by the fact that there were rather lot of other people there, of all ages – I reckon I was the oldest, though. On the way up the weather was fine with occasional sunshine. Unfortunately it started to rain as I reached the summit. Thankfully the cloud base was higher than it had been for a while. And there was the pleasure of joining in the speedy and mildly dangerous bumslides down the steeper snow/ice slopes, particularly on the Piggbrean. I know I was the oldest doing this – all the others were under 25 years old – my excuse being that it was an opportunity to practice ice axe breaks.



Piggbrean glacier

A welcome cup of hot chocolate at the end of the day
Judging by some of the route descriptions I have read there is rather more snow around this year than usual.
Spent the night at Spiterstulen – and actually paid for the privilege so that I could have a much needed shower.

Went to Jotunheim national park



Kyrkja across the Leirvatnet glacier


08-07-12
Although largely a quite misty day, until late evening I drove up the tollroad/bomveg in Leirdalen to Leirvassbu. From there walked around the Leirvatnet glacier and up the intermittent snow covered or very boulder slopes to the top of Kyrkje (1843m) and then across to the very steep sided and pointy Kyrkja (2032m, P277). Not much of a view because of the mist there were glimpses of the glaciers below. And the loud roar of a nearby avalanche was quite scary in the mist.





Kyrkja from Leirvassbu
 Met another Czech couple on the way down and walked back with them.
Slept the night at Leirvassbu. Because of the 24 hour daylight this time of the year it was quite late before I realised the time.

09-07-12
Another rainy lazy day. Much of it spent at Juvasshytta, a ski-hut at the end of the highest road in northern Europe (1840m). Then visited Lom and slept by the swollen river Otta.

Went to a World Heritage site

03-07-12
Drove from Grenen to Hirtshals – much of the northern tip seems to consist of sand-dunes. Sailed on the Fjordline MS Bergensfjord to Bergen. Very calm crossing that took 18 hours.


04-07-12
Landed at Bergen. Brief look at the town and then headed off to Gudvangen as the scenery became increasingly more spectacular when not in a dark tunnel. Slept near by to Gudvangen.

Hemmed in at sea
05-07-12
Decided to do the touristy thing of taking a boat round trip along the Naeroyfjord (a World Heritage site) and the Sognefjord from Gudvangen to Kaupanger. Great views of mountains and waterfalls.






Particularly struck by the presence of the Stiganosi mountain between Naeroyfjord and Aurlandsfjorden.


 


Also visited the tourist town of Flam, popular with giant sized cruise ships
Slept at Langhuso which is in a small gap between two very long road tunnels on the E16.

 06-07-12
Jonadalen
Walked from Langhuso through birch woods by the Jonadalen river and then up the steep sides to the snow covered plateau of Stiganosi (1761m, P680) the highest point in Syrdalsbreen. It was very hot and the slight breeze on the summit was welcome. Great views of snow covered mountains in every direction.

Stiganosi summit


Slept by the river Dylma near Borgrund.


07-07-12
As it was raining and I wanted to move on the day was spent travelling and relaxing. Picked up young Czech couple, Mikael and Hanna near Laerdal and drove them over the dramatic toll road between Ovre Ardal and Turtago. They camped alongside my van at Jotunheimen Fjellstue.
Apparently serious floods in England. Whereas here in Norwegians are obviously used to the mass of water that pours down the rivers as the snow melts. My friend and keen paddler, Cliff, would be delighted by the waterfalls, cascades and standing waves that appear to be the norm in the rivers at this time of year.


Went up to the Danish most northerly point and didn't come down again

Baltic sea
Atlantic ocean

02-07-12
Explored Grenen, Skagen which is the northerly tip of Denmark where quite literally the waves from the Baltic and the Atlantic crash into each other. Obviously a very popular tourist spot for the Danes. However, notably no flotsam or jetsam.
After a wander round the tourist town of Skagen returned to car park at Grenen for the night.


Got confirmation that my son, Luke has got a 2.1 for his degree. Well done, Luke.

Baltic meets Atlantic where Denmark runs out...
... and crash into each other.